Panopoly Creations

Ring Things

When I first started thinking about and experimenting with making handmade ceramic rings, I couldn’t find anybody who did it, so I pretty much had to work from scratch to figure out how best to construct them, glaze them, fire them, etc. There were a lot of kinks to work out, such as how to make the rings as round as possible (you can’t just wrap a strip of clay around something, because the clay shrinks as it dries, so it’ll just crack; plus, ware often deforms slightly in the kiln), how to glaze them (do you just glaze the outside or the whole thing?), and how to fire them (if I glaze them on the outside only, I can do it the same way I fire my handmade beads, but if the whole ring is glazed, I’ve never found a good way to do it). But most of these difficulties were, in the end, easily solved.


[Woodland Ring, Size 4.5]

I found that a ring doesn’t have to be perfectly round to be comfortable to wear, for one thing. A certain level of roundness is required for aesthetic purposes, of course, but beyond that, the wearer’s fingers don’t mind. Unfortunately, without a perfectly-round ring (such as what you’d get with a metal or glass ring, where it’s actually formed around a round shape and hardens there) it’s much harder to size it properly. This was possibly the most challenging thing for me to figure out–math has never been my strong suit! What I basically ended up doing, after finding a list of ring sizes and their equivalents in millimeters, was figuring out my own ring sizes, and then trying on the rings I’d made. I discovered that the most accurate way to do things was to size the ring based on the smallest (diameter) measurement I could get from it. I found that if a ring was the right size on at least one part of my finger, it didn’t matter if the ring was otherwise a bit big–and contrariwise, if the ring was too small in one place it didn’t matter how big it was in others–it was still uncomfortable!


[Wavy Orange Ring, Size 7.5]

The next thing I had to look to was glazing. I had made a few successful prototypes in which I glazed the entire ring–however, I had to construct my own kiln furniture on which to glaze them, and even with that I usually had to sand off stilt marks from wherever the furniture had touched the rings. It was very time-consuming and not very satisfying. Aesthetically thinking, I thought that having the whole ring glazed looked prettier. However, when I actually started wearing some of my rings to check the comfort level, I found that for some reason having the inside glazed made my finger feel constricted. If I frequently got my hands wet while wearing the ring, I sometimes got a rash similar to what I get when I wear metal rings with wet hands.

So in the end I decided not to glaze the insides. It not only saves me a lot of trouble but I think the end product is more comfortable for the wearer–and nobody else sees the inside of the ring anyway, unless the wearer shows them. After all that time I spent fiddling, I am very satisfied when the line I’ve put together, and I hope you will be too!


[Lemon Cream Ring, Size 6.5]

New Clay Woes

Firstly, I’ve added those blue beads and the red ceramic ring prototype to my Etsy shop.

Meanwhile I think I’ve finally discovered the solution to a problem I’ve been having for a while. It’s been really difficult for me to get my beads glazed thickly enough. I originally painted on my glaze, which is apparently the “normal” way bead makers do it, to keep the glaze from getting in the bead holes…but it was really hard to figure out how many coats were enough (my glaze manufacturer said “two to three coats,” which was clearly too low), plus because my beads are pretty small I was still getting glaze in the holes…plus, between you and me, it felt like I was often removing just as much glaze as I was putting on with each additional coat.

So I came up with two solutions: the first one is the one I’m trying now, which is to hold the beads between my fingers, covering the bead holes, and physically dip them into the glaze. This is kinda messy, and I then have to do touch-ups to the area my fingers covered. I’ve only done one test fire of beads glazed this way, and the results were kind of disappointing. The beads tended to me more glazed on one side than the other, and many of them were still not glazed thickly enough. So I’ve done another test batch that will hopefully fix both problems. I have yet to test my second solution, which is to fill the bead holes with wax resist and dip them entirely into the glaze.

But I think there might be another factor entirely that’s contributing to my glazing woes, which is the bisque temperature.

A few months ago I starting using a new kind of clay that I haven’t been terribly happy with. It’s called B-Mix with Sand, and I think it’s by Laguna Clays. There’s probably nothing wrong with it for other uses, but for me…well. I suppose the problem was that I told the lady at the store that I handbuild, as opposed to working on a wheel. Which is true. However, it automatically led her to believe that I needed clay with lots of grog, which is (basically) sand, because my work needed more support. This is not true, because of the scale of what I generally build, and how I build it. As it is the gros makes it a bit harder to get nice smooth beads.

Wth the new clay also, apparently, came a new firing range. I usually bisque (this is the first fire, before the glaze is applied) at cone 06. But if you bisque your ware at too high a temperature, it will make it much more difficult to get enough glaze to absorb/stick to it. (If you bisque it too low, it can absorb too much glaze and become brittle.) So next time I’m going to try bisquing at cone 07, and see if that helps.

And I’m probably going to switch to another clay when this runs out, too.

Also, entirely unrelated, but: Did you know that my Etsy shop (and every other Etsy shop) has an RSS feed? Well, I didn’t until a couple days ago! Nifty!

96 Bottles of Glaze on the Wall…

Actually, not on the wall, but in the mail, headed my way. A glaze company’s sending me 4oz. sample bottles of their entire line. I’m so excited!

Tomorrow I get to discover whether or not the girl I got my clay from actually knew what she was talking about–that is, that my clay is actually high-fire. Fortunately that doesn’t involve risking melting my whole kiln full of ware, since I bisque at the same temperature whether or not the clay’s low-fire. I’ll just have to do a test or two afterward, to find out how mature the clay is at that point.

I don’t think I’ll be picking up any more free, unmarked clay any more. Too complicated. I hope the other varieties I got from her aren’t as groggy as this one, too…

I’ll also be doing my “About” page here in a few minutes, and I’ve added another link to my “Blogroll” (which fortunately won’t be called that once the new layout is done): West Coast Crafty. Yay!